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Scorched, burned or brown grass is quite a rare summer event but as weather patterns seem to produce longer spells of wet, cold or dry then this may become a more common event. Read on to find out how to repair a brown lawn to its previous magnificence and maintain a greener lawn for longer next year.
They tend to look very similar and the only way to tell which it is is to add water. Dead grass is dead and like anything dead it can't be reversed. Brown grass (not dead grass) is in a dormant state and can be brought back to life. It generally takes a couple of inches of steady rain to start the process of greening after summer drought and then in a week or so you should know where you stand. Unfortunately you may find that even though most of your lawn revives it may be patchy and thin in areas. If you're lucky and end up with total recovery all you need to do is four things:
If not then read on........
Hoping for the best once the rains have started may well cause you a lot more work in the future. Some dead areas may remain dead with an unsightly matt of brown grey grass which will not decay and thus prevents grass growing back in. Yet other areas where the grass is thin or bare are a target area for weeds, weed grasses and moss. Once established they create even more work so you need to repair all areas with your chosen grass seed before problem plants take over. A stitch in time saves nine is a very apt expression in this case.
You may find some unwelcome plants have started to establish during the drought. Some coarse grasses from fields and the countryside may have survived and prospered as they are deeper rooting than your lawn grasses. Similarly, some weeds with deep roots will also be more obvious. If this is the only problem you have then it would be best to dig out the grasses and spray or manually remove the weeds. Though scarifying is often a recommended control for weed grasses it is just that - control not removal! In this case the weed grasses should be young and either single plants or small tufts. I use an old kitchen knife to cut into the roots without too much disturbance to the lawn. Knock off any soil from the roots and you shouldn't have a hole either. Any bare patches bigger than your palm will need a light sprinkle of grass seed.
If your lawn also needs repairing and over seeding, DO NOT use any weed killer as this interferes with the seeds. Dig out the weed grasses and any of the larger weeds, follow the repair process below and live with the remaining weeds until spring next year.
This is no different from giving the lawn a good rake or scarify as you would for moss or thatch but with the addtion of aeration by spiking. Do NOT hollow tine as this has the effect of increasing the rate of evaporation (drying) which is the opposite of what a lawn suffering from drought needs! So, scarify to clear away dead material, expose the soil, spike, top dress if you wish, though not essentail, then put in your chosen grass seed and fertiliser in that order. You can follow the procedure either by watching the videos or by reading starting with the page 'How to Rake and Scarify'. If your lawn also has a moss problem start from the page 'Moss Removal'.
Dry warm weather makes for testing conditions particularly if it has been dry for a period of time before seeding. This means there is no moisture in the soil and therefore any watering you do is gone in minutes, this is why we suggest building a reservoir of moisture in the soil prior to seeding. This can mean watering with a sprinkler for at least 8 hours just in one spot and a medium lawn can take days to water.
The seeds need to be soaked continuously for about 24hours to flush out germination inhibiting enzymes within it. Unfortunately, light watering 2 or 3 times a day just means it goes through a cycle of wet, dry, wet, dry throughout the day which doesn’t get rid of the germination inhibiting enzymes. You can help the situation by:
Finally make sure you feed the new seedlings. Use the Starter fertiliser if you're sowing a new lawn or the Autumn fertiliser if over seeding. It's usual to apply them at the time of seeding.
Our rule for all treatments to the lawn is 'only when it is actively growing and there is moisture in the soil'. Start too early and you may increase the damage.
Should the worst happen with rains and recovery coming very late in the autumn you may not be able to rake or scarify and over seed before it gets too cold. In this case ensure a generous feed with our Autumn fertiliser followed by a feed of our Winter Green fertiliser early in the new year plus as much spiking as you can manage. This will give the lawn the best chance of surviving the winter, keep it looking as good as possible thus allowing you to postpone raking or scarifying until spring.
Good lawn care practices have always been the backbone of maintaining a green healthy lawn and it is no different here:
Technically there is no such thing but a grass that has deep roots will tap into water deeper in the soil thus staying greener longer; at least long enough to survive a typical british summer. That is all true when using drought tolerant grass (deep roots) to establsih a new lawn. Over seeding an existing lawn is a different ball game altogether.
For starters, when over seeding only about 25% of your newly introduced seed survives so if you over seed at the new lawn rate you've still got 75% original none drought tolerant grasses remaining!! This means you need to over seed for 3 years running to effect a desirable change!
Secondly it is all very dependant on the condition of the established lawn. If it is old, never been aerated, heavily used or heavily compacted then it's water holding capacity is perhaps 20% of what it used to be as a new lawn. Healthy soil contains air spaces; it is these spaces that fill and hold the water when it rains. Compacted soil has minimal air spaces so no water holding capacity! Solving this will solve 90% of your lawns drought problems. Adding a drought tolerant grass is the icing on the cake.
Also see Compaction
You could dig down into the lawn a few inches and check for moisture but a crude but often accurate measure of soil moisture for lawns other than those on very sandy soil is to use a 6" phillips screw driver. If it pushes all the way into the lawn easily then you have maximum moisture in your lawn. As the lawn dries it will get harder and therefore the screw driver will not penetrate as far. If the driver won't go in more than an inch or so then your lawn is starting to become dry and care should be taken. Any less than an inch of penetration and I'd classify the lawn as dry and therefore refrain from treatments.
What we're talking about here are patches of dry grass or rings of dry brown or dead grass in otherwise green lawns. These conditions still occur in dry weather but usually occur most years in certain lawns after only short periods of drought. This is more a lawn and soil problem rather than a climate problem and is something that you can quite easily address by using a wetting agent. Have a read of the page on Dry Patch or on Fairy Rings.
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