No Scorch Fertiliser
What is Grass Burn or Scorch?
You may have experienced or heard of fertiliser burn or scorch on the grass. The term is descriptive rather than scientific. Green or organic fertilisers, composts, mulches or manures are not considered to have scorch risk whereas manufactured, mineral or non-organic fertilisers can have varying degrees of scorch risk and those are the ones we consider here.
Burn Type 1: Fertiliser, being a salt, and if of a powdery nature, will, if left in contact with the grass leaf, absorb moisture from it. This dries the leaf causing it to shrivel and therefore look like it’s been burned.
Burn Type 2: When fertiliser is over applied in good moisture conditions being typical of hand spreading. Alternatively, applied correctly when moisture levels are too low. Common now the British weather is less variable with more high pressure events bringing weeks of dry weather.
Both cause a high strength fertiliser solution to develop in the soil and by osmosis ‘sucks’ moisture out of the grass plant causing a brown straw like burn. It is therefore advisable to check for sufficient soil moisture before applying fertiliser; the fact that it rained earlier in the week means nothing!
High Grass Scorch Risk
This effect is increased when using combined grass ‘weed and feed’ fertilisers. By their nature they are a very fine granular or powder product to enable good contact of weed killer and weed leaf. This fine quality increases the contact area with the grass leaves therefore increasing scorch potential. Secondly if the lawn fertiliser is ‘quick release’ then it is all ‘active’ and has even more burn potential.
In addition, any fertiliser containing iron (ferrous sulphate) will also have a greater burn risk. This is not to say iron is a bad thing but when combined with other salts the total package is more aggressive.
Minimal Grass Scorch Risk
On the other hand the salts in controlled or slow release fertilisers are ‘locked up’ to a certain degree thus limiting the dangers. Secondly, fertilisers such as Lawnsmith® Fertilisers are granules or pellets that will bounce or roll off the leaf into the soil thus minimising the amount of fertiliser contacting the grass leaf. This considerably reduces burn or scorch potential.
No Scorch Fertiliser
This is usually 100% coated and requires moisture to break down the coating and release the contents. These are normally used by lawn care companies because they need to safely feed lawns according to a schedule NOT according to the lawns requirements. This means they may need to feed your lawn during a hot dry spell otherwise they won't earn their fee. You, on the other hand, live close to your lawn and can feed it during the right conditions just like the greenkeeper or groundsman does to the turf he/she cares for.
The problem with feeding in very low moisture conditions (as lawn care companies do) is that though the feed doesn't burn at the time of application it does remain ready to be activated when conditions improve. If conditions remain dry and they return for another treatment you now have a double dose. If you now get a little rain it will activate and you now have a lot of fertiliser in the ground and not enough water. You now have burn type 2!
This refers to fertliser products in liquid or soluble form applied by sprayer or watering can.
Many people wrongly assume that because these are already diluted by water they have considerably less scorch risk than dry products. If applied in good moisture conditions at the correct rate they are very safe but, if the grass is struggling for moisture the application on the leaf of a salty fertiliser solution may cause instant burn which can be made worse by dry winds and direct sunlight. This applies to all liquids fertilisers including Lawnsmith Soluble Fertiliser and also Green-up Ferrous Sulphate at low to medium rates. However, it is normal and to be expected that Ferrous Sulphate applied at rates to affect moss always runs the risk of some slight temporary leaf burn.
The Compaction Effect
Older lawns (20years plus), high activity or play lawns and areas of high traffic (paths to sheds or clothes lines) become compacted over time. The compaction reduces the capacity of the soil to hold air and water thus increasing the risk of fertiliser burn even in good conditions. Regular aeration reverses this effect and increases the life span of your lawn.
Lawn Moisture Test
You could dig down into the lawn a few inches and check for moisture but a crude but often accurate measure of soil moisture for lawns other than those on very sandy soil is to use a 6" phillips screw driver. If it pushes all the way into the lawn easily then you have a very moist lawn. As the lawn dries it will get harder and therefore the screw driver will not penetrate as far. If the driver won't go in more than an inch or so then your lawn is starting to become dry and care should be taken. Any less than an inch of penetration and I'd classify the lawn as dry and therefore refrain from treatments.
All fertiliser, other than 100% coated or 100% organic, has scorch potential with some doing it more readily than others. At Lawnsmith we have taken great care to balance our products so that the scorch risk is minimal as long as you apply when there is reasonable ground or soil moisture. If there is no moisture why waste your money fertilising - it won't do any good until the soil regains moisture!
What to do if you have Burnt the Lawn
You can’t remove the fertiliser as it’s already started to react and burn. The best thing to do is dilute it with water and stimulate growth so that the scorched leaves grow out. This means turning the sprinkler on and watering for several hours a day for several days depending on how much damage has been caused. The best time to water is straight after fertilising if you think you’ve over done it or when you first notice the damage and then continue with morning only watering.
The degree of burn may vary so fast action always helps. A leaf burn is just that, and the plant is fine and will recover over a few weeks. A crown burn means the damage is severe and has destroyed the grass plant. Unfortunately it is hard to differentiate until the lawn starts to recover or not as the case may be. This may take several weeks and if it doesn't recover then you will need to re-seed the area.
Warning: If you use too little water you can dissolve more fertiliser which then doesn’t get diluted sufficiently which then burns new areas. When watering you must drench the lawn, area by area.