Planning the New Lawn

Soil, pH & Amendments

If you’re spending a lot of time and money on an ornamental or croquet lawn then you MUST get a soil test done at a laboratory. You should also request advice and recommendations on required soil amendments for the type of grasses you will be growing. Even if you’re not planning an ornamental lawn a soil test is still a good idea as it can save trouble later on down the road particularly if you’re planning on sowing grass seed over a largish area.

At a minimum (mainly if you're a perfectionist like me), buy a pH tester; it may well save you from sowing the wrong grass seed or turf! If you’re not getting a soil test done and don’t intend amending the soil then a few simple tips are worth considering:. If you get this bit right not only will the lawn look and grow better it will also be easier to maintain and cause fewer problems.

What grass seed to choose?

If the soil is heavy, clay, poorly draining or neutral pH (6 to 7) plant rye or tall fescue grass seed or turf – Lawnsmith EASYGREEN, CLASSIC or STAYGREEN.

Should your soil be very sandy, freely draining or with an acidic pH (5 to 6) then sow these grass mixtures – Lawnsmith ORNAMENTAL, CLASSIC or STAYGREEN are best.

If the soil is alkaline (pH 7+) or chalky, go with - Lawnsmith EASYGREEN, STAYGREEN or CLASSIC.

If the soil is primarily builder’s rubble, buy a minimum of 3” – 4” good loam topsoil or use Lawnsmith STAYGREEN.

Finally, if your garden has a lot of shade, then Lawnsmith SHADYGREEN is the best option. It also grows well in clay, loam, and chalky soils.

Slopes

These may be planned or part of the existing landscape. Whichever they are consider the following:

• Steep slopes are hard to mow and dry very quickly
• The top should curve gradually; otherwise, you’ll get a lot of scalping with the mower
• The bottom of the slope can get water-logged
• Use turf on moderate to steep slopes. You may even need to peg the turf on steep slopes to stop it from sliding downhill until it roots.

Lawn Drainage

There are two factors here. Firstly, drainage from the lawn; ideally, you want this away from the house if the lawn runs up to the walls. If the lawn slopes the wrong way, install drainage along the wall; otherwise, it’ll just end up as mud.

Secondly, patios and driveways can drain into the lawn; if you have a slow draining heavy soil this can cause considerable stress to the grass. If this is the case put in drainage tiles or ‘soak-aways’ at the lawn edge or put drains into the patio or driveway.

If the site is particularly prone to water logging, installing a free-draining base layer may be the answer.

Lawn Edges

If these are alongside borders then put a 30 degree slope outwards and downwards so that the bottom of the edge projects into the border. This will help prevent the roots drying prematurely.

Edges that border a hard surface, such as driveways:

• Ensure the hard surface material is not under the lawn edge and the lawn has at least 15cm (6") of soil depth
• The hard surface not only gets quite hot but also retains heat in the summer and promotes rapid drying of the lawn edge. Try installing a thermal barrier between the lawn edge and the hard surface. Pressure-treated timber works, as does heavy-duty deep plastic edging.

Lawn Design

I’m not a garden designer, but I know what makes for an easy-to-maintain lawn:

• Keep it simple shape – K.I.S.S.
• Narrow entry points (steps and paths) to the lawn concentrate foot traffic in those areas. Keep access points as wide and numerous as possible.
• Straight edges and gentle curves are easiest to mow and maintain
• Limit the number of islands or obstacles on the lawn. Bird baths, lawn-centred shrubberies, trees, ponds etc. make mowing slower and harder and increase edging chores
• Keep narrow areas to a minimum. An optimum width is one where mowing can be done in either direction – east to west or north to south
• If you intend striping the lawn with the mower simple shapes are best – K.I.S.S.
• If you are planning an ornamental lawn consideration must be given to making scarifying and aeration as easy as possible – K.I.S.S.
• Will the lawn get sufficient light? Choose your seed or turf accordingly and make changes to the design if light is expected to be very low

Lawn Levels

If you are happy with the depth or levels of the area then maintaining it as you prepare the ground is all that is important. However, if changes need to be made or you are adding volume with additional soil you will need to mark out with pegs and string the new levels you wish to achieve. These should only be removed once final levels are achieved in the surface preparation stage.

Project timing

As for when to start seeding a lawn, consider April onwards when temperatures start getting to 12°C and are consistently above 8°C. Summer months are great if you can be diligent with watering if there is little or no rain. Late August and September are also ideal when the rains start but before the autumn gets chilly.

Turfing can be done at pretty much any time, though summer will require considerable watering. Therefore, turfing is best done in cooler, wetter conditions and makes a perfect winter job, with November to March being the traditional turfing period.

Finally, don’t rush; the more time you can give the project the better. This is particularly true when you come to preparing the soil and a clean seed bed.